![]() ![]() Master cylinder leaks may not even be visible in some cases, but leaks from the rear of the master cylinder can allow brake fluid into the power brake booster and destroy its internal vacuum diaphragm. This can lead to a loss of brake fluid near the master cylinder, pulsing or a lack of resistance in the brake pedal, and a reduction or loss of braking pressure. Over time, the fluid seals inside the master cylinder may wear out. Brake master cylinders often include the brake fluid reservoir, which allows you to inspect the brake fluid level and condition and refill your brake fluid during repairs or service. This creates a pressurized force strong enough to engage the brakes and slow or stop your vehicle. it would take less time to strip down the junker that way, and you get extra parts.The brake master cylinder pressurizes and transfers hydraulic fluid in the brake lines to activate your brake calipers and wheel cylinders when pressure is applied to the brake pedal. I would recommend taking the whole front suspension with the other brakes if you can get it. You'll find it cheaper when you do it that way, and they won't care if you take something you forgot to mention. Negotiate with the junkyard for a fixed price for the whole nine yards of what you need. You could even take the hydraulic flex hoses (but use new ones on your car), and you'll need those mounting brackets for them too. If it still is holding vacuum when you disconnect it, that's a real good sign, but hard to find an a-body in a junkyard untouched and complete. The brake booster needs to be checked before you buy it, they're expensive new. Figure on rebuild kits for the calipers, and a new or rerurbished master cylinder. Save the spindle bearings off the junked rotors, you may need the bearings for the part #s. You'll want new rotors, so don't buy them if you dont have to. Go to a junkyard and strip it all off a '73 up a-body. Good luck, and change your ball joints too while you're at it! I've even seen a setup on Ebay once in awhile. ![]() There are places that sell complete disc setups for A and B-bodies, whether they're junkyard pulls or new. I had a '70 340 swinger (wsh I still had it.) that was also factory discs and the booster. I have a '69 GT with a slant six and a second '69 GT, that's a V8 (and going to be a GTS clone., both came with factory 4 piston discs, but the slant six car has manual discs and the V8's got the power booster. Mostly, the discs were on 4 door cars and special option package darts/demons/valiants/dusters/swingers/scamps like 340's, customs, twisters, GT's, GTS's, and so on. More front is good for bracket racing.) I only tried the adjustable one once, and I didn't like it. (more rear, more front, whichever you like. You actually can buy an adjustable proportioning block that will allow you to set up the braking however you like it. The disc brake proportioning block is necessary for safety, and also proper braking proportions. The Drum brake master cylinder has two equal reservoirs, which, if you used it with discs, will give you no rear braking, since the drum cylinder wont move enough fluid to engage the rear brakes. But you don't have to have a power brake booster, but it's nice. You can't use you're drum master cylinder. At least I have a '69 that has original disc brakes, so maybe it was as early as '67? I've never seen discs from the factory on any '66 and older A-body. Yes, A-bodies had disc brakes as early as '69, I believe. All you have to do is swap it from the spindles out, and change the master cylinder and proportioning block over to a disc setup.ĭon't use '72 use '73 up, they're improved over the 69-72 brakes. ![]()
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